Setting up a board game should not take longer than actually playing it. If you are tired of dumping components into a pile of baggies and spending fifteen minutes sorting meeples before the first turn, you are in the right place. In this guide, I will walk you through exactly how to make a game insert without measuring by using the components themselves as your template.
No rulers, no calipers, no spreadsheets with millimeter calculations. Just foam core, a sharp blade, and the game pieces you already own.
I have built over a dozen custom inserts using this technique, and I can tell you that once it clicks, the whole process feels like assembling a puzzle. The pieces tell you exactly where walls need to go. Your job is simply to listen to them.
Table of Contents
What Is a Game Insert?
A game insert is a custom organizer placed inside a board game box that holds components in designated compartments. Instead of dumping everything into baggies or leaving pieces loose, an insert gives every card, token, and miniature its own home.
Good inserts do three things well. They cut setup time from 15 to 20 minutes down to under 5 minutes. They protect components from rubbing against each other and getting damaged. And they let you store games vertically on a shelf without everything sliding into a mess.
You can buy pre-made inserts from companies like Broken Token, Folded Space, and Laserox. Those are great options. But they cost money, they are not available for every game, and you wait weeks for shipping. Making your own costs a fraction of the price and works for literally any game on your shelf.
How to Make a Game Insert Without Measuring: The Core Technique
The no-measuring technique is simple in concept. Instead of writing down dimensions and cutting foam core to exact millimeter specifications, you use the actual game components as physical templates. You place cards, token stacks, and miniatures directly on the foam board, trace around them, and cut.
This works because foam core has thickness. A wall piece cut to the exact width of a token stack will hold those tokens snugly. You do not need to know that the stack is 42 millimeters wide. You just need the wall to match the stack.
Reddit users in the r/foamcore community describe this as the moment inserts “make themselves.” Once you stop thinking in numbers and start thinking in shapes, the layout falls into place naturally. You arrange components on the table the way you want them organized, then build walls around that arrangement.
The key shift is this: the components are the ruler. Every measurement you need is already sitting in the box.
Materials and Tools You Will Need
One of the best things about this approach is how cheap the materials are. Here is everything you need to get started:
Foam core board (also called foam board): This is your main building material. Dollar Tree sells sheets for around $1.50 each, and one or two sheets will handle most games.
Sharp utility knife or craft knife: A fresh blade makes all the difference. Dull blades tear the foam instead of cutting cleanly.
Cutting mat or thick cardboard: Protect your table. Self-healing cutting mats are ideal, but a scrap piece of cardboard works fine.
Glue gun and glue sticks: Hot glue bonds foam core fast and holds well. Tacky glue also works if you prefer something cooler.
Metal ruler or straight edge: Even though you are not measuring, you still need something to guide straight cuts. A carpenter square works great for right angles.
Pencil or pen: For tracing around components before cutting.
Push pins: Optional but helpful for holding walls together while glue dries.
That is the full kit. Total cost for materials runs about $5 to $8 for a single game insert, compared to $30 to $60 for a commercial version.
Step-by-Step: Building Your Insert Using Components as Guides
Here is the complete process for making a game insert without measuring. Follow these steps in order and you will have a functional, custom-fit organizer by the end.
Step 1: Empty the box and study your components.
Pour every piece out of the game box and sort them into logical groups. Cards in one pile, tokens in another, miniatures in a third, dice and miscellaneous pieces in a fourth. This sorting step tells you how many compartments you need and what size each one should be.
Think about how the game plays. Components that are used together should live near each other. Player pieces in one tray, shared resources in another, and the board on top of everything.
Step 2: Map out the footprint of the box.
Take the lid off the game box and lay a sheet of foam core flat inside it. Press down gently so the foam core takes the shape of the box bottom. Then use your knife to score along the inside edges of the box, marking the exact interior dimensions.
Remove the foam core and cut along those score lines. You now have a base piece that fits the box floor perfectly. No ruler needed because the box itself was your template.
Step 3: Arrange components on the base.
Lay your sorted component groups directly on the base piece inside the box. Move them around until the arrangement makes sense. Token stacks should sit flat, cards should be reachable, and miniatures should not crowd each other.
Leave small gaps between groups for wall thickness. Foam core walls are typically 3 to 5 millimeters thick, so give each group a little breathing room.
Pay attention to box depth. If your components stack taller than the box, you will need to plan for layered trays that sit on top of each other. Most games have enough vertical space for one or two layers.
Step 4: Trace the component groups.
With your components arranged on the base, take a pencil and trace around each group directly onto the foam core. These traced outlines are your compartment guide. They show you exactly where walls need to go.
Remove the components and look at the traced pattern. You now have a map of your insert drawn by the pieces themselves. This is the heart of the no-measuring technique.
Step 5: Cut wall pieces to match the outlines.
Now you build the walls. For each traced compartment, cut strips of foam core that match the length of each side. Here is the trick: instead of measuring each strip, lay a piece of foam core along the traced line, mark the length with your pencil, and cut.
The traced line tells you exactly how long each wall needs to be. Cut a strip, test-fit it against the trace, and adjust if needed. A fresh blade makes this fast and accurate.
For wall height, stack your components and hold a foam core strip next to the stack. Mark the height with a pencil and cut. The component stack itself sets the wall height.
Step 6: Glue the walls to the base.
Apply hot glue along the bottom edge of each wall piece and press it onto the base, following your traced lines. Work one compartment at a time so the glue does not set before you position the wall.
Reddit users report that tacky glue also works well and gives you more working time. Some crafters just “glob it on” rather than being precise, since the glue gets hidden between walls.
Use push pins to hold walls at right angles while the glue sets. This is especially helpful for tall walls that want to lean.
Step 7: Test-fit the components.
Before the glue fully cures, place your game components into each compartment. They should fit snugly without being forced. If something is too tight, you can trim the wall slightly before the glue dries completely.
Check that cards can be lifted out easily, token stacks slide without sticking, and miniatures sit without wobbling. Make small adjustments now while everything is still movable.
Step 8: Add a lid or second layer if needed.
If your game has a lot of components, you may need a second tray layer that stacks on top of the first. Build it the same way: use a foam core base cut to the box interior, arrange the remaining components, trace, cut walls, and glue.
The board itself usually sits on top of the insert as a natural lid. Make sure the lid closes fully with everything inside before calling it done.
Step 9: Let it cure and play.
Give the glue at least an hour to fully set. Then load your components, close the box, and shake it gently. Nothing should rattle or shift. You now have a custom insert built without a single measurement.
Tips for a Clean, Professional-Looking Insert
The difference between a rough first attempt and a polished insert comes down to a few techniques I have picked up over dozens of builds.
Change your blade often. A dull blade is the number one cause of ragged, torn edges. I swap blades after every two or three major cuts. Foam core dulls blades faster than you might expect. The sharper the blade, the cleaner the cut, and the better your insert will look.
Score first, cut second. For long straight cuts, run the knife lightly along your straight edge first to create a score line. Then make two or three passes with increasing pressure to cut all the way through. This prevents the blade from wandering and gives you crisp corners.
Use the box edges as cutting guides. When you need a wall that matches the interior width of the box, hold the foam core inside the box and score along the box wall. The box becomes your ruler for any cut that spans the full width or length.
Be generous with glue at joints. Wall corners take the most stress. Put extra glue at every T-junction and corner. Push pins hold everything steady while the glue cools. Forum users on BoardGameGeek swear by this method.
Label your compartments. A quick pencil mark on the base of each compartment saying what goes there saves setup time. You can also use colored paper or cardstock to line compartments for a pop of color.
Round your corners slightly. A small chamfer on the top edge of each wall makes it easier to grab components. Just a light angle cut on the top edge of walls prevents tokens from catching.
Plan for lid lift. Check that the box lid closes fully at every stage of assembly. It is much easier to adjust wall height before gluing than after. If the lid lifts, your walls are too tall and need trimming.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
I have made every one of these mistakes so you do not have to. Here are the pitfalls that trip up beginners most often.
Cutting walls too tall. If your walls are even a millimeter taller than the box depth, the lid will not close. Always test-fit the lid after placing your first set of walls. It is easier to trim a wall down than to rebuild a compartment.
Forgetting about component expansion. Sleeved cards take up more space than unsleeved ones. Token stacks grow when you add expansion content. Build compartments with a little extra room if you plan to expand your game collection.
Gluing before test-fitting. Hot glue sets in seconds. If you glue a wall in the wrong spot, you have to tear it off and redo it. Always dry-fit every wall piece against the traced lines before applying glue.
Making compartments too tight. A snug fit is good. A fit so tight you cannot remove pieces is frustrating. When tracing around token stacks, leave about a millimeter of slack on each side. Components should slide in and out with light finger pressure.
Ignoring the board. The game board usually sits on top of your insert and acts as a lid for the compartments below. Make sure your insert height plus the board thickness fits within the box. If the board has a fold or hinge, account for that extra material.
Trying to make it perfect on the first try. Your first insert will probably have a wobbly wall or a compartment that is slightly too small. That is normal. Forum users report that the first insert takes about 4 hours, but the second one goes twice as fast. Each build teaches you something.
Adapting the Technique for Different Game Types
Not all games have the same component mix. Here is how to adapt the no-measuring approach for common game styles.
Card-heavy games. Games like Dominion or Marvel Champions live and die by card organization. Stack your card decks and trace around the stack for each compartment. If you sleeve your cards, build the insert with sleeved cards inside so the compartments account for the extra thickness. Add a small finger notch in one corner of each card compartment so you can lift the deck out easily.
Miniature-heavy games. Games like Gloomhaven or Descent have dozens of unique miniatures. Arrange them on the base in a grid pattern with enough space between figures that they do not touch. Trace around each cluster. Foam core walls between clusters keep miniatures from sliding during transport. For very small figures, group them by type rather than giving each its own slot.
Tile-based games. Games like Carcassonne or Cascadia have stacks of tiles that need to stay organized. Build compartments sized to the tile stack height. Tiles sit flat and are easy to shuffle and draw from. If tiles need to be sorted by type, trace individual compartments for each category.
Games with player boards. Player boards take up significant flat space. Decide whether they live inside the insert or on top of it. Most games have room for player boards to rest on top of the insert layer, underneath the main board.
Legacy and campaign games. These games evolve over time. Build your insert with some empty compartments or expandable sections so new components from future sessions have a home. Label compartments as locked or unlocked if the game has a legacy element.
FAQs
What is a game insert?
A game insert is a custom organizer placed inside a board game box that holds components in designated compartments for easy setup and storage. It keeps cards, tokens, and miniatures separated and protected so you can start playing faster and store the game vertically without pieces sliding around.
Can I make a game insert without measuring tools?
Yes. You can use the game components themselves as templates. Place cards, token stacks, and miniatures directly on foam core board, trace around them, and cut walls to match. The pieces provide every measurement you need without a ruler or caliper.
How long does it take to make a foam core game insert?
Your first insert will take about 3 to 4 hours as you learn the technique. Once you understand the process, most inserts take 1 to 2 hours. Simple card games can be done in under an hour, while complex games with many component types may take longer.
What materials do I need for a DIY game insert?
You need foam core board (about $1.50 per sheet), a sharp utility knife, a cutting mat, a glue gun with glue sticks, a metal straight edge, a pencil, and optionally push pins. Total cost runs about $5 to $8 per game.
How can a beginner get started making board game inserts?
Start with a simple game that has few component types, like a card game or a tile-laying game. Use the no-measuring technique of tracing around components on foam core. Cut walls to match the traced lines, glue them to a base that fits the box interior, and test-fit components before the glue fully sets.
Is foam core or foam board better for game inserts?
Foam core and foam board refer to the same material: a lightweight board with a foam center sandwiched between paper sheets. Both work well for game inserts. Look for boards that are 3 to 5 millimeters thick for sturdy walls that hold up over time.
Conclusion
Making a game insert without measuring is one of those skills that sounds intimidating until you try it. The components do the hard work for you. They tell you where walls go, how tall they need to be, and how wide each compartment should be. Your only job is to trace, cut, and glue.
Start with a simple game from your collection. Grab a sheet of foam core, a sharp knife, and a glue gun. Follow the nine steps above, and by the end of the afternoon you will have a custom organizer that cuts your setup time and keeps every piece in its place.
The real reward comes at your next game night. Instead of digging through baggies and sorting tokens, you open the box, lift out the trays, and start playing within minutes. Learning how to make a game insert without measuring by using the components themselves changes the way you experience every game on your shelf.
Once you build your first insert, the second one goes twice as fast. Before long, you will be organizing your entire collection, one foam core sheet at a time.